Finally had a chance to make a cap list for the Toei Tc-a292s. The cap map is still SUPER rough. I need to overlay it onto a picture of a board. Right now it’s just stuff I’ve drawn on a legal pad 😛

 

Chassis Cap List:

Location
Voltage
UF
Bipolar?
c10 50 1
c30 50 1
c34 50 1
c36 50 1
c63 50 1 x
c76 50 1
c77 50 1
c12 50 2.2
c13 50 2.2
c14 50 2.2
C88 50 2.2 X
c89 50 2.2 X
c28 50 4.7
c32 50 4.7
c94 50 4.7 x
c19 16 10
c37 16 10
c45 16 10 x
c53 50 10
c87 50 10
c29 16 22
c5 16 22
c52 250 22
c52 250 22
c7 16 22
c83 16 22
c9 16 22
c66 16 33
c71 15 33
c102 160 47
c111 100 47
c3 16 47
c42 35 47
c44 35 47
c61 35 47
c67 35 47
c84 35 47
c85 35 47
c90 35 47
c1 16 100
c112 16 100
c124 16 100
c126 16 100
c55 16 100
c62 250 100
c68 50 100
c75 16 220
c78 16 330
c69 35 470
c96 16 470
c97 200 470
c115 180 680
c104 25 1000
c105 16 1000
c92 35 1000
c70 25 2200

Neckboard:

Location
Voltage
UF
Bipolar?
c402 16 10
c404 250 22
c401 16 10
c403 16 10

Small Board:

Location
Voltage
UF
Bipolar?
C1 16 100
c2 35 47

 

Or, if you prefer a sheet: Click Here

As for the super duper rough map, that is available below. I’ll update this when I have a pretty version

CapMapFinal

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A few months ago with my Vewlix cabs I bought an MVS U4 29 Inch. I’ve had practically no time to work on it, given that I moved for a new job and got inundated with Macro stuff. Finally I’m tearing this thing apart and working on it. It was FILTHY. It needs a bit of work. Here’s what I have planned:

  • Sandblasting the CP
  • Replacing all controls
  • Recap the monitor
  • Total wash
  • Future repainting
  • New side art
  • New front door. May have to make one if I can’t find one

Anyways. Here’s a quick pic dump of the cab. Unfortunately I didn’t take a ton of photos of it dirty. But here are the pre wash and post wash pics

Before:

After:

 

My current issue is trying to track down a cap kit for this monitor ( The tube is a Toshiba A68KJU96X01. Chassis is a Toei Tc-a292s). I can’t find much of anything about it online. So I may have to resort to looking at each cap individually and purchasing the kit, then making a cap map for anyone else who may need a cap kit. This is my plan, but I may not be able to do this until next weekend at the earliest.

I modified a 25 inch CP overlay to (hopefully) fit the 29 inch I have. Since I couldn’t find a 29 incher. You can find it right here, if you need a 29 inch overlay. Though I’ll update this once it’s on and tested. I’m also trying to track down the artwork for the 1p and 2p start buttons, that was above the overlay. Mine broke into pieces when I took the CP apart.

 

Poop.

A few months ago I received a free Sega Nomad from a friend. It has more or less been sitting in a closet with all of my other Sega games, mostly unused. The issue with the Nomad was that the battery compartment was missing, so realistically this thing was unusable. I finally decided to tear it apart and integrate some rechargeable batteries for it. This was mostly done with parts I had lying around.  So what I used for this was:

  • Two knock-off Chinese DS Lite batteries (I have a ton of these from macro work)
  • A spare 7.4v charging circuit
  • Spare 7.4v smart battery charger.

This is less of a tutorial post and more of an image dump. As of right now, the battery portion of the mod is complete, but the LCD portion is not. The LCD had some syncing issues with the Nomad, so I ordered another one. I will post a much more in-depth and tutorialized post once that is all finished. But for now, here are all of the images of the mini project.

 

 

A few weeks ago I had the urge to get a backwards compatible PS3. I’ve had a few in the past, but they seem to eventually die of YLOD. I decided to pick a YLOD console up off of ebay for $30 and fix it. I did the standard reflow as a repair, as well as replaced the thermal paste on the IHS for the GPU and Cell processor in some crazy dream that it will keep going if I do that.

In addition to that, I also decided to make an adjustable fan mod. I did this fairly simply, and you can see the photos below on how to do it yourself if you’d like.

Initially I was just going to mount a POT to the front and use it for fan adjustment, I eventually decided it might be beneficial to also put a switch in so I can switch between the fan being controlled by the PS3 and the fan just being controlled by the POT. Keep in mind, this POT isn’t really the perfect rating (250k I believe), but it works fairly well and I had it on hand. As well as a random DPDT switch. The mounts aren’t perfect, but I’ll clean them up in a bit, this is just a quick hour long project.

 

 

Here’s a dumb video:

 

In the back of my head for a while I’ve had plans to build a jamma box so I can use xbox 360 on a cabinet. Well my Vewlix came a few days ago, and I really wanted to use a 360 in it. The vewlix was wired for Chinese Jamma (which allows buttons 1-6 over one harness) so I figured why not build it for that? I can always use a JNX adapter to make it normal jamma! Anyways, I used the padhacks below that I’ve had sitting in a drawer for a year

 

IMG_20141003_232150

 

Anways, I used a project box and a Jammaboard.com (RIP) jamma edge connector. I feel like it came out pretty nicely!

 

 

That’s pretty much it. I just wanted to throw a quick post up!

My Chinese Vewlix (Chewlix?) cabinets came today. This is a relatively short post text-wise, but I have a video on some of the fixes I’ve done so far!

 

 

Here’s quick video on some of the fixes I’ve done:

 

NeoGeo

You may or may not know that I LOVE SNK and NeoGeo. There’s something strange about SNK games, some incredible charm they have and I just love it. Maybe it’s the broken English, the weird gameplay, the beautiful visuals, or just everything. But something about them I really get into. Anyways, I’ve wanted a NeoGeo AES for a very long time, I just can’t bring myself to buy one. Then it occurred to me, why should I buy an AES when the MVS games are cheaper and more abundant? I should just build a consolized MVS! Well, I’m in luck since I have an extra MV1FZ board! While it isn’t the MV1C, it is still a one slot board and should do what I want it to do! I’m sure eventually I’ll buy an AES and an Omega though. The parts I’ve chosen are as follows:

Continue reading

Yay!

Recently I picked up a New Astro City. It was in pretty rough shape…

 

 

Anyways, per usual I broke out the hose and Simple Green (I wonder if I get enough traffic for them to become a sponsor? Probably not). The display was particularly gross. Not as bad as my blast city, but still pretty bad.

So we go from this:

 

To this:

 

Now onto the rest of the cab. I didn’t take any photos of the post cleanup, it just took a lot of simple green and water really. This definitely needs to be repainted at some point, but not today. Here was the corpse after the clean.

CleanCorpseAstro

Not looking too hot next to the blast…

 

Next up was ripping out the jamma harness and rewiring it. That took probably 4 hours. Wiring is such a pain. On the plus side I did improve a bunch of wiring in the cab from being spliced to using AMP connectors and whatnot.

 

WiredUp

 

 

Shockingly everything worked, including audio.

 

I then worked on the control panel. Removed the 50 yen sticker that had been placed on it, only to have a 100 yen sticker be underneath that. These 100 yen stickers are so much nicer! In the process of washing the CP the center bolt hole broke off so I had to use some abs cement to weld it back into place, see the hi-tech electrical tape stabilizing it?

CPGlued

 

 

 

With that in place I had to get a new cp, thankfully Jasen (of Jasenscustoms.com) makes some awesome repros so I picked one up from him and applied a new overlay to it 😀

Then it was just a matter of buttoning the baby up! Right now I’m running Darksoft’s CPS2 multiboard in it, I might throw something else in there sometime, we’ll see!

Yay!

Yay!