Well I continued to fuel my addiction and bought a Beatmania arcade cabinet. First off, this thing is MASSIVE. Specific dimensions are: 39″x44″x75″. This makes my six slot look tiny. I have a bit of work ahead of myself:
Clean it up
Recap and calibrate the monitor
Fix general chips on the frame
Convert the HDD to an SSD or a CF card
Just look how big this thing is…
I’m pretty excited to start this project as I haven’t really done much arcade stuff and have left this blog to rot for a while. I’ve also found a cap list an manual online for the monitor, which I’m going to record on here for reference. The display is a Toei TC-L292
Cloning the HDD or finding ISOs will probably be an issue. I imagine it’ll be possible to make a few different CF cards if I can just find the content, as a lot of the Beatmania cabinets run off the same hardware.
Much much more to come on this!
I bought an F14 Tomcat Pinball last year, and am finally going to get around to refurbishing it. I have an LED kit on the way and am working on tracking down a plastics kit. This should be pretty straightforward as it’s overall in great shape. But just for kicks, here are a couple of pictures.
A few months ago with my Vewlix cabs I bought an MVS U4 29 Inch. I’ve had practically no time to work on it, given that I moved for a new job and got inundated with Macro stuff. Finally I’m tearing this thing apart and working on it. It was FILTHY. It needs a bit of work. Here’s what I have planned:
Sandblasting the CP
Replacing all controls
Recap the monitor
New side art
New front door. May have to make one if I can’t find one
Anyways. Here’s a quick pic dump of the cab. Unfortunately I didn’t take a ton of photos of it dirty. But here are the pre wash and post wash pics
My current issue is trying to track down a cap kit for this monitor ( The tube is a Toshiba A68KJU96X01. Chassis is a Toei Tc-a292s). I can’t find much of anything about it online. So I may have to resort to looking at each cap individually and purchasing the kit, then making a cap map for anyone else who may need a cap kit. This is my plan, but I may not be able to do this until next weekend at the earliest.
I modified a 25 inch CP overlay to (hopefully) fit the 29 inch I have. Since I couldn’t find a 29 incher. You can find it right here, if you need a 29 inch overlay. Though I’ll update this once it’s on and tested. I’m also trying to track down the artwork for the 1p and 2p start buttons, that was above the overlay. Mine broke into pieces when I took the CP apart.
In the back of my head for a while I’ve had plans to build a jamma box so I can use xbox 360 on a cabinet. Well my Vewlix came a few days ago, and I really wanted to use a 360 in it. The vewlix was wired for Chinese Jamma (which allows buttons 1-6 over one harness) so I figured why not build it for that? I can always use a JNX adapter to make it normal jamma! Anyways, I used the padhacks below that I’ve had sitting in a drawer for a year
Anways, I used a project box and a Jammaboard.com (RIP) jamma edge connector. I feel like it came out pretty nicely!
Yeah, it’s going to be messy.
The outside isn’t so messy
Playing Super Meat Boy!
That’s pretty much it. I just wanted to throw a quick post up!
You may or may not know that I LOVE SNK and NeoGeo. There’s something strange about SNK games, some incredible charm they have and I just love it. Maybe it’s the broken English, the weird gameplay, the beautiful visuals, or just everything. But something about them I really get into. Anyways, I’ve wanted a NeoGeo AES for a very long time, I just can’t bring myself to buy one. Then it occurred to me, why should I buy an AES when the MVS games are cheaper and more abundant? I should just build a consolized MVS! Well, I’m in luck since I have an extra MV1FZ board! While it isn’t the MV1C, it is still a one slot board and should do what I want it to do! I’m sure eventually I’ll buy an AES and an Omega though. The parts I’ve chosen are as follows:
Recently I picked up a New Astro City. It was in pretty rough shape…
Not to mention the mess of wires.
Anyways, per usual I broke out the hose and Simple Green (I wonder if I get enough traffic for them to become a sponsor? Probably not). The display was particularly gross. Not as bad as my blast city, but still pretty bad.
So we go from this:
Now onto the rest of the cab. I didn’t take any photos of the post cleanup, it just took a lot of simple green and water really. This definitely needs to be repainted at some point, but not today. Here was the corpse after the clean.
Not looking too hot next to the blast…
Next up was ripping out the jamma harness and rewiring it. That took probably 4 hours. Wiring is such a pain. On the plus side I did improve a bunch of wiring in the cab from being spliced to using AMP connectors and whatnot.
Shockingly everything worked, including audio.
I then worked on the control panel. Removed the 50 yen sticker that had been placed on it, only to have a 100 yen sticker be underneath that. These 100 yen stickers are so much nicer! In the process of washing the CP the center bolt hole broke off so I had to use some abs cement to weld it back into place, see the hi-tech electrical tape stabilizing it?
With that in place I had to get a new cp, thankfully Jasen (of Jasenscustoms.com) makes some awesome repros so I picked one up from him and applied a new overlay to it 😀
Overlay applied to new CP
Then it was just a matter of buttoning the baby up! Right now I’m running Darksoft’s CPS2 multiboard in it, I might throw something else in there sometime, we’ll see!
Jasen went ahead and made me a slightly different version of his ps360+ DB15 daughter board that can pass buttons k4 and p4 through specifically for padhacks. This came up when I told him it’d be really cool to use that thing for padhacks instead of superguns, since I don’t have a supergun, and likely won’t really use one. It was a relatively simple change, but since the db15 connector only has 15 pins, he ended up using shield for ground. Anyways, heres what I have:
I finally have the NeoGeo and Xmen Vs Street Fighter cabinets ready to go. After getting the control panels sandblasted, painted, cutting new Lexan, and getting new overlays they’re finally back together. It all took far longer than I wanted it to, but that was just due to time constraints. Overall they look fantastic. There is a small issue with the NeoGeo, mainly since I left the overlay vinyl attached to the original backing the pressure the Lexan puts on it causes some noticeable marking. I think that may just be trapped moisture that will go away. If not, I’ll put the vinyl onto cardstock backing and see how that goes.