My dad decided it would be a good idea to build a 3d Printer. He’s planning on handling the hardware end (minus electronics), while I handle the software end. So far it has been an adventure. He purchased a Prusa i3 kit from Geeetech and got to work building it. There isn’t really much I could do on the building side of things, but I know it was quite the ordeal. Either way, it turned out alright.
Then we move on to the log…
The diagrams on modretro seem to be gone, so I figure I should post this up here for my own reference. The DPDT wiring to have a power jack to charge and a power jack to play is as follows
This results in: Center off, top to play off of external power, bottom to play off of battery.
This will allow you to view battery levels
This could be used if you want only one charge port. But would require a powerful smart charger.
Just a quick update. I performed the PSOne LED Mod to my screen to save battery life, and because the the backlight burned out. It went fairly smoothly, though I blew out a few leds. Most things I’ve read recommend a 20ohm resistor, which seemed insanely low. I ended up going with 100ohm, which gives me a very visible level of brightness. I used four LEDs instead of the typical two.
I also removed the backlight fuse, and cleaned up the electrical tape that was all over the other wires on the portable.
Wellp, I’m trying my hand at making some more boards, though very simple ones. I don’t have a DB15 board that is short enough for my PS4 project box, so here’s one mocked up, that maps every pin. We’ll see how it goes. Though I ordered my parts from China since the US was literally like 5x the price.
Jasen went ahead and made me a slightly different version of his ps360+ DB15 daughter board that can pass buttons k4 and p4 through specifically for padhacks. This came up when I told him it’d be really cool to use that thing for padhacks instead of superguns, since I don’t have a supergun, and likely won’t really use one. It was a relatively simple change, but since the db15 connector only has 15 pins, he ended up using shield for ground. Anyways, heres what I have:
I’ve made the decision that I would definitely like the start writing a top ten games list each year, maybe even a few reviews periodically. Sure, very few (if any) people will read it, but I think it’d be a fun little thing to do, so lets kick it off with my top ten games of 2014!
For Christmas I decided to surprise my dad with a simseat and logitech g27. I went with the RaceRoom RR3055 and the shifter mount addon. I built the seat on Christmas Eve and dragged my dad’s desktop out to run the sims on, it’s fantastic.
I swear, this is slowly becoming an arcade only blog. But anyway, since SF5 was announced as a PC and PS4 exclusive I figure I should make my sticks work on PS4. Right now it looks like it’ll be exclusive to my stick with the DB15 adapter, but, hey, better than nothing.
I picked up one of these Hori Fighting Commander Pros and ripped it apart.
One issue I ran into was that my only DB15 cable is male to female, so I ordered a gender changer for this adapter. I still have to put the whole thing into a project box, but at least I’ll now have 6 button fighting support on PS4 up until a more permanent solution comes out!
I finally have the NeoGeo and Xmen Vs Street Fighter cabinets ready to go. After getting the control panels sandblasted, painted, cutting new Lexan, and getting new overlays they’re finally back together. It all took far longer than I wanted it to, but that was just due to time constraints. Overall they look fantastic. There is a small issue with the NeoGeo, mainly since I left the overlay vinyl attached to the original backing the pressure the Lexan puts on it causes some noticeable marking. I think that may just be trapped moisture that will go away. If not, I’ll put the vinyl onto cardstock backing and see how that goes.
A bit of time ago I got into Raspberry Pis and Arduino boards. I thought it’d be a good idea to refresh myself on programming and gave Python a shot since it’s a relatively simple language. Since all of this Crypto Coin mining is so big I might as well make a Dogecoin Stock Ticker.
I got an Adafruit LCD from Microcenter, breakout board, and started figuring it out. I using Adafruit’s LCD library.The code consists of Five python libraries. It switches between Dogecoin and Bitcoin every ten seconds and updates value every five minutes.